ruth reichl

After a long blogging absence that involved a move and a lot of packing and unpacking, I’m back to the blog!  I did take a brief break from moving and unpacking to go see Ruth Reichl on a local stop for her book tour.  She spoke in Portsmouth, NH, at the Music Hall on May 1st to promote her newest book, Not Becoming My Mother: and Other Things She Taught Me Along the Way, which was released in hardcover in April.

I had never been to a book signing event before, so I didn’t know what to antcipate, but I find Reichl to be smart and witty in her books, so I was really eager to hear her speak.  Reichl opened by reading a passage from a previous book, Tender at the Bone, which describes how Reichl’s mother often cooked and served spoiled, strange, and unappetizing foods.  She went on to explain that her mother was truly taste blind, leaving her and her brother to defend favored guests from foods that could make them sick.  Unusual beginnings for someone who is now an editor of Gourmet magazine and a renowned foodie.

Not Becoming My Mother was the product of years of wanting to write about her mother’s mental illness – Reichl’s mother suffered from bipolar disorder.  However, Reichl focused much of her energy talking not about her illness, but about feminism and the times in which her mother grew up.  The title of her book refers to the fact that Reichl’s mother loved her enough to push her not to emulate her mother - she speaks of how smart and driven her mother was – and how bored.  Women of Reichl’s mother’s generation were not encouraged to have ambitions outside of the home. 

Read the rest of this entry »

Some people remember what they were wearing on important days of their lives, others remember the music or sounds in the background.  Ruth Reichl remembers what she was eating – in vivid detail.

Tender at the Bone: Growing Up at the Table is Reichl’s first memoir; a very personal account of a fascinating upbringing and early adulthood.  She shares honestly about growing up with a mother who had a mental illness, a mother who cooked and served questionable foods.  Moldy food seems like an unlikely start for  a gourmand, but Reichl was clearly born to be a foodie.  It is clear in reading this memoir that every important event in Reichl’s life led to where she is today.   She tells tales of her travels where she tried new and exotic foods, and stories of family and friends showing her the do’s and dont’s of cooking.  Even her stories about being virtually abandoned at  a French boarding school in Montreal (despite little previous knowledge of the French language) led Reichl to new food discoveries and helped her to refine her palate. 

All of the stories in this memoir are tied seamlessly together with a singular theme – food.  Reichl describes food in a way that makes you salivate – even when she is describing a dish that she ate over 3o years ago.  It is fascinating and inspiring to me that Reichl did not seek out a career in food, she attended school and pursued other vocations before seemingly falling into a field where she was meant to stay.

As in Reichl’s other books, Reichl writes with equal measures of honesty, humor, and humility.  And, like her other books, she shares the recipes that were special to her in this time in her life.  Tender at the Bone is an easy and enjoyable read for anyone who loves food  and fascinating memoirs.

I stumbled upon Ruth Reichl’s books purely by accident.  It was a happy accident that has me working through all of her books (though working is really the wrong word) anecdote by anecdote, recipe by recipe.  She is, in my eyes, the foodie of all foodies.

My first Reichl book was Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise (though this is not the first of her books, if you wish to read them chronologically).  The premise of this particular book centers on Reichl’s work as a food editor to the New York times; a job with serious responsibility and serious implications.  Reichl had worked previously as a food editor, but never for such a high profile publication with such power to make or break a restaurant.  After uprooting her family and moving cross-country, Reichl quickly learned that restaurants across New York City were all but stalking her  – her picture and personal information were widely circulated (rather unnerving!) prior to her arrival.  Admirably, Reichl did not let this stop her or affect her ability to garner honest reviews of restaurants of all calibers.

Her inventive solution was to design and don disguises when dining in restaurants that she wished to review.  Reichl often returned to restaurants several times, often in different disguises.  The results are fascinating, and often hysterical.   Her candid revelations shed light on some of the most famous restaurants in the city (and, often, the country) and, in turn, about society.   In the process, Reichl learned a lot about herself and those around her.  Reichl has a way with food, and with words; you can practically taste the food that she describes.  Many of her reviews are reprinted in the book and she shares several recipes as well.  I can’t recommend this book highly enough to anyone with an interest in food or the restaurant world.  Even non-foodies will enjoy her observations.

Reichl is editor-in-chief at Gourmet magazine and has authored three books, with one more due out in April (I can’t wait!).  She has also co-authored and edited several other books.