I stumbled upon Ruth Reichl’s books purely by accident. It was a happy accident that has me working through all of her books (though working is really the wrong word) anecdote by anecdote, recipe by recipe. She is, in my eyes, the foodie of all foodies.
My first Reichl book was Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise (though this is not the first of her books, if you wish to read them chronologically). The premise of this particular book centers on Reichl’s work as a food editor to the New York times; a job with serious responsibility and serious implications. Reichl had worked previously as a food editor, but never for such a high profile publication with such power to make or break a restaurant. After uprooting her family and moving cross-country, Reichl quickly learned that restaurants across New York City were all but stalking her – her picture and personal information were widely circulated (rather unnerving!) prior to her arrival. Admirably, Reichl did not let this stop her or affect her ability to garner honest reviews of restaurants of all calibers.
Her inventive solution was to design and don disguises when dining in restaurants that she wished to review. Reichl often returned to restaurants several times, often in different disguises. The results are fascinating, and often hysterical. Her candid revelations shed light on some of the most famous restaurants in the city (and, often, the country) and, in turn, about society. In the process, Reichl learned a lot about herself and those around her. Reichl has a way with food, and with words; you can practically taste the food that she describes. Many of her reviews are reprinted in the book and she shares several recipes as well. I can’t recommend this book highly enough to anyone with an interest in food or the restaurant world. Even non-foodies will enjoy her observations.
Reichl is editor-in-chief at Gourmet magazine and has authored three books, with one more due out in April (I can’t wait!). She has also co-authored and edited several other books.
